Friday, May 23, 2014

Beijing Day One: Facing my greatest fear - sharing a room with 3 male strangers.

Saturday 10 May, 2014 
¥9.30           Snacks
¥8.00           Taxi 
¥442.00       Hostel (6 days)
¥20.00         Dinner
¥50.00         Transport Card
¥22.40         Fruit
¥2.00           Water
(¥553.70)

Total: ¥553.70 ($97.65)

Weekly Total: 
¥2423.50 ($427.42)

Total Spend: ¥25376.15 ($4798.65 AUD)


- - - - -


So I might have lied to you. I was travelling with the intention of being by myself, but I was not entirely alone persay.

I knew 3 girls from my school (2 of who I had travelled with to Huangshan) were going to be in Beijing too the same time I was there. I may or may not have booked the same hostel as them as a safety precaution (against loneliness, the greatest fear of solo travel!) 

The night before I had only gotten 2 hours of sleep and with the song ‘北京欢迎你‘- Beijing Welcomes You still ringing in my ears and my mouth parched from some MSG'd mantou (steamed bread) from late night BBQ, I set off early to get on my 9:53am train. Luckily I bumped into these girls at uni, and discovered we were both on the same train (I swear I did not plan that one) and so instead of catching public transport I jumped into a taxi with them and had some sweet company there.

We were seated separately but in the same carriage, and we went to the same hostel together ("You're in the same hostel?" "Oh really, what a coincidence!") but after we arrived we split from there.

Real-Life Cluedo

Check-in was handled nicely enough, and before long I was handed my key into my 4-bed dorm. When I entered it was empty (phew!) but there were signs of living. I saw Nike sneakers on the floor, man deoderant and empty beer cans on the desk, towels, jackets and a baseball cap hanging on the hooks and an empty top bunk for me. It was the absence of beauty products in the bathroom that made it clear: I was in a room with 3 boys.

I can't say how I felt - it was a mix of confusion, hesistancy and perhaps just a fear of the unknown. Why would the receptionist put me in a room with 3 boys? Isn't that kind of dangerous?* Why am I the only girl? I felt uncomfortable, as if I had intruded a boys-only zone. Are they serial party-people? What if I can't sleep here? What if I don't get along with them? The week would just drag. Maybe I could ask to change to a room with females...

I set my thoughts aside and decided to do the first thing I always do when I arrive in a new place: explore my surroundings. 

The Explorer

My hostel is in a hutong (a narrow lane or alleyway in a traditional residential area of a Chinese city), and armed with first-day anxiety I felt as if it would be unsafe for me to walk back on this empty back-alley at night, so I decided to explore while the sun was still out. 

I walked from ZhangZiZhong Lu to the main eatery areas the next metro stop down around Beixinqiao. My impression of Beijing was still neutral - it was bustling and crowded, there were a lot more people than I was used to, and I still kept my DSLR safely nestled in my bag (it's a sign that I still was wary of my surroundings). I had been warned by almost everyone to be careful of what I eat here (most people get sick) so I chose a clean looking restaurant and had a quick meal around 6:00pm, then grabbed a drink from Coco and treated myself to some expensive mangosteens (it's always good to find familiarity and little things that make you happy in a 陌生地方 - unfamiliar place).

I then returned early to my hostel and had to make a big decision - go to the larger living room (it had some people chatting there) or go to the smaller one (only one guy there on his laptop). 

Melting Pot

There wasn't much thinking involved. I went straight for the little one, got my blank itinerary out and started researching places to go for the rest of my week.

I think being in a smaller environment is a good place to start for solo travellers in hostels because it's much less intimidating. Even though this wasn't my first time, I felt it was more in my nature to be there. I could concentrate on doing what I needed to do, but eventually I ended up chatting with the two guys there - one from Germany, one from France. I got tips on places to go, and the French guy T even helped me with information on how to get my Mongolian visa. (He ended up being a very good friend, but at this point I didn't know that yet). He had lived on a farm in Australia for 2 years and he was in China as part of a detour before heading back to France. His lifestyle in Australia was completely different to mine and it piqued my interest. He showed me pics of the outback and we exchanged stories on our different experiences in Uluru and Coober Pedy.

My Mystery Room-mates

I eventually went back into my room and met my roommates. The first person I met was P, a Congan born in the Netherlands who was my age. He could speak Dutch, French and English, and he was here for a month as part of an internship program, the same as M, a Kurd born in France. 

When I met M, he was at the reception desk and when I introduced myself, he said "I already know." He also already knew my birthday (which made me think he saw my details from reception.) I was a bit surprised, but he was friendly enough. He was encouraging me to go out with them to the club that night, but since I hadn't slept at all the night before I said I had no energy to. 

The last person in my room was O, from Mexico. He was a little bit older and was here with his brother's family (who stayed in a hotel) for a holiday. He moved in the same time as me, while the other two boys had been living there for over a week already.

That night, M&O went to the club, so it was only me and P in the room. P is good friends with M, but he's a bit older than M (who is 21 and still has very young boy-ish intentions), so I found out we were both quite similar in our attitude to going out. We both like to go out and dance, but we're a bit over the whole getting drunk scene. 

I found out that he is a pro foot-freestyler. Foot-freestyle is this new emerging sport (?) of doing football tricks, and there are competitions in Europe. He also made me guess his other 'skill' which turned out to be tutting - a dance form. I told him that I was always interested in popping and locking, and so he also taught me some basic tutting moves. We also shared our collection of R&B music, and by then it was already 1am and we had talked for more than two hours. 

Outside the Comfort Zone

Ah I forgot to mention! I had spent the whole night planning a list of places to see in Beijing, but I had completely forgotten to look at the weather. The next day I had originally planned to go to the Forbidden City, but in the living rooms I also met another Mexican, J, who was a budding businessman who told me all about this Social Innovation Week that was happening in Beijing that weekend. He had a two-day pass, but since he wasn't going the next day, he ended up giving it to me so I could go in for free. I didn't think I had enough time to do both the Forbidden City and this convention, but since it was going to be raining I changed my plans and decided to go.

By the end of the first day I was already feeling warm and fuzzy. Mentally I put a giant red tick next to my decision to come here by myself - I wouldn't have been able to meet so many wonderful souls and hear so many great stories if I had come here by any other way.

- - -

*I know this is a bad thing to think and a bad stereotype but I'm being honest! 

- - -


PHOTODUMP


A really clean bathroom in the 高铁 (high speed train). Clean bathrooms are kinda rare in public areas here. Also I think a full length mirror placed here in the bathroom is kind of awkward. Also favourite travel clothes. Also selfie.

Look, steamed vegetables! (Kinda rare to find them unseasoned here)

Ahh chain stores. Its always the same pudding & pearls chocolate milk tea wherever you go!

I was thoroughly confused by this.
Just figured out that 'pool' probably means the water in the toilet bowl.

The view from the quiet living room.. look at all those people in the other room I evaded! (Introverts fistbump!)(more like self-bump)
#foreveralone

一个难忘的地方:Beijing, Beijing!



I don't know whether it was the freedom of travelling solo, the thrill of skipping one whole week of class (that's a big deal here), or the fact that China's capital is such a welcoming and cultural city, but I must say, Beijing has been the best city I have been to so far.

This trip to Beijing had been decided since 2 years ago, when I first made the decision to participate in the Great Wall Half Marathon. That was the main purpose of the trip, but it seemed pretty obvious to also spend a week there to explore the city as well.

I had visited Beijing once before with my family, but it was so long ago I assumed I had forgotten everything. Prior to this, I was always of the mentality that it's a bit of a waste to bring young children on overseas trips as when they grow older, they'll just forget. It seemed like it was more for bragging rights on the playground than for anything else.

But when I returned this time to places like The Forbidden City and the Summer Palace, I was hit by the greatest sense of deja vu. I know I have been here before, but now I actually remembered! I remembered walking down the 'Long Corridor' with my parents - my father filming, while my mother pointed out that each painting on the thousand beams were different. 

But everything else in Beijing was new to me, probably because everything else beyond the walls of UNESCO World Heritage protection is allowed to change. 

I'm an outspoken advocate of travelling solo, but I cannot lie, I am always a bit hesistant the first day of any trip, and I wonder to myself why I didn't just go for the safety net of travelling with someone familiar. But deep down I knew it would be rewarding, and I was not disappointed at all.

One of my biggest fears was the question: Is it safe for a female to travel solo around China? And I can definitely say yes, well in Beijing at least.

I love Beijing, not just because it has weaved culture and history so well into  the hutongs of the modern metropolis, but because it has done something I didn't think was ever in me - it has ignited a sense of genuine pride in my heritage and it has restored my faith in Chinese people.

Growing up outside of China, it is so easy to believe all the stereotypes you hear about this country. Even studying in Hangzhou, deep down I was always the foreigner who detested the spit on the side walks, the pollution, the noise. 

But there's something about being by yourself in the cultural capital that makes it so clear that deep down this country is rooted in beauty too. Sure, China is the place where you can get fake eggs and melamine in your milk powder, but it's also the country that built the longest man-made structure in the world. It's got a government with questionable moral rights and intentions but that does not represent the honesty and 热情 of all it's people. 

It's not perfect, but it's made me proud to be Chinese.

- - - - -

Wednesday, May 21, 2014

That Week I Lived In The Cafe.

Monday 5 May, 2014 
¥8.00           Lunch
¥2.50           Banana
¥1087.00    Return Tickets to Beijing
¥25.00         Dinner
¥25.00         Honey Lemon Tea
(¥1147.50)

Tuesday 6 May, 2014 
¥19.90         Printing (199 pages)
¥1.50           Banana
¥2.00           Drink (Peet's)
¥200.00       Tutor
¥25.00        Dinner (Korean)
¥5.00          Taxi 
¥10.00        Groceries
(¥263.40)

Wednesday 7 May, 2014 
¥12.50         Coffee (Peet's)
¥4.00           Highlighters
¥12.00         Lunch
¥8.00           Fruit
¥12.00         Dinner
¥12.50         Drink (Peet's)
¥4.50           Milk 
(¥65.50)

Thursday 8 May, 2014 
¥3.00           Eggs x2
¥12.00         Lunch
¥100.00       Phone Recharge (Monthly fee is 20kuai!)
¥25.00         Phone Charger Cable
¥16.00         Tea (Peet's)
¥8.00           Fried Jiaozi (Fujian)
¥25.00         Dinner (Sandwich at Peet's)
¥3.00           Water and Ice Cream
(¥192.00)

Friday 9 May, 2014 
¥4.00           Breakfast (Uni Restaurant)
¥12.50         Coffee (Peet's)
¥4.00           Lunch (Fujian)
¥15.00         Banana Choc Milkshake (Peet's)
¥67.00         Celebratory Dinner (Vineyard) I Finished my lit review!!
¥10.90         KTV Snacks
¥68.00         KTV
¥20.00         Supper
(¥201.40)


Total: ¥1869.80 ($329.77)

Weekly Total: 
¥1869.80 ($329.77)

Total Spend: ¥24822.45 ($4701.00 AUD)


- - - - -

My Literature Review was initially due on the Monday, but our professor is quite lenient and allowed us to have an extension of two weeks. I was leaving to Beijing on the Saturday though, so I set Friday as my due date.

Just a bit of background - so my lit. review is about the ageing population in China, and how contemporary family structures are affecting traditional patterns of filial piety here. It's quite generic too, mainly for me to get a bit of an understanding of what the situation is like now in China, also in relation to how the government is tackling the problem. Elderly care systems here are very underdeveloped - so I think it's a great window to research what would be some good care models in China (as Western models such as retirement homes completely go against cultural expectations of filial piety again). 

Still, a lot of nursing homes are popping up. Community care services seem like a good option too, but since China is so vast and varied, a lot of this examples work in cities but rural areas are completely neglected.

Anyway it's  pretty dire situation here at the moment.

Interesting things that have happened this week.. well on Tuesday I met up with my Huangshan crew of 6 again for dinner. We received a 100yuan deposit back from the hostel, and nobody remembered who paid it so we just decided to spend it on food. The Koreans took us to a famous Korean restaurant in Hangzhou, and we just had a good time catching up, laughing, etc. 

I also found out the two other Korean girls would be in Beijing at the same time, so I felt a little bit better going solo since I'd at least know some people there. I found out we even booked train tickets at the same time to get to Beijing, and we were at the same hostel! (Okay maybe I found out about the hostel earlier and changed my plans to go to the same one.. I was questioning this when I booked but it ended up being a good move - it's the best hostel!)

I finished my lit. review on the Friday (YAY!) but it was pretty rough&rushed. I had been cooped up in Peet's Cafe, taking advantage of their "2nd cup half price" every day and cursing the diseased kitten living in the cafe for triggering my allergies. (Kitten belongs to the cafe owners, it's diseased so they gotta take care of it at the cafe.)

My other friends loved the kitten but I think being around it for a whole week, and being stressed out from the literature review, has somewhat confused my emotions and it has transformed me from a cat person to a dog person. I can now proudly state that I am a dog person. (I should've seen the signs.. I'm allergic to those fluffballs after all!) 

On Friday I finally rejoined society and had a great dinner (no more rushing next door to the cafe to eat crappy Chinese food!), and then followed it up with a great karaoke session (KTV here if you're not in the loop yet). I was itching to sing and belt out ballads after such a stressful week! 

<!> Do you know the song "Beijing Welcomes You"? It was made for the 2008 Beijing Olympics. Since I was leaving on Saturday, my friends sang the song for me, and I would say at that point (it was probably around 1am) it finally hit me that I was going to be going to Beijing the next day! I was so busy with my lit.review that I had put it at the back of my mind, but I was finally feeling the first pang of excitement of going on my first solo trip in China.

Watch the video..it's so heartwarming and uplifting!

PHOTODUMP TIME

How not to photograph food/#platingup: This is what I ordered as a "healthy" option. It's full of salt.

This was me these past 5 days: Think 4 person table taken over by one person and her stack of papers

Cat, I don't like you even though everyone else seems to love you. I think you're dumb. You walk funny with your cone of shame. It's too heavy for your head so you get tired of walking. I know you're sick and I should have empathy but you are too small.. yes that's my reason. When people look at you and say 'aww' it repulses me. Maybe you are cute but that part that registers cute  no longers exists in me. So I think I pity you. 

So to add to my stress (or maybe the cause of my stress?).. this was happening right outside the cafe. 

And I mean like, right outside.
CHINA LIFE Y'ALL

Tuesday, May 20, 2014

What's the weather like? Crowdy!

Monday 28 April, 2014 
¥25.00         Necessities (@ Huangshan, everything is more expensive)
¥80.00         Cablecar
¥115.00       Huangshan Park Entry
¥22.00         Bus 
¥10.00         Lunch (3x Bao's)
¥8.00           Water
¥8.00           Eggs  
¥12.00         Drink
¥16.00         Dinner
(¥296.00)

<In Huangshan>

So today was the day we were meant to return back to Hangzhou, and 3 of our friends did that. But me and Z were disappointed with what we saw yesterday, and made an impromptu decision to go back up to the mountain again today.

The only problem was, we didn't have accomodation booked up on the mountain, and every hotel up there (like maybe the 5 up there) were full already. Some had free rooms but there were $600 per night.

So the first thing we did was go up and go around and ask if they had any tents left (some said they were full, some were obviously not bothered to set up a tent for foreigners for so little money). We also only spoke in English to make us seem more desperate and lost.

Finally, we found a hotel with a wonderful reception lady, who said it was possible for us to sleep in the lobby... as long as we did not make it very obvious. Score! Free accomodation! We were so happy, and so grateful to have her help us. She initially called all the other hotels for us to find a spare room too!

So with accomodation secured under our belt, we set out on our adventure to see everything we had missed the day before. We walked pretty much everywhere, it was a massive day - walking from 9am to 7pm!

If you look at the map, the worst part is that its arranged in a starfish formation, which means you must always walk back up the highest peak to get back to the middle, before going to another viewpoint. I guess it's because we didn't plan it very well.

My favourite places were definitely the ones with the least amount of tourists. At around 4pm, we decided to walk to Fairy Walking Bridge, which is a place that I had mentioned to Z earlier. It's a bit out of the usual walking trail, and not exactly a famous location. Not only that, since it was already getting late, no one was walking there, so we were pretty much alone. It was perfect! Also the sun came out for us when we were there, so that just topped it all off.

<DYI!> Past 4pm, most shops on Huangshan stop selling instant noodles. This is so they force people to eat at the overpriced restaurants.. but if you ask them quietly.. they can make a secret transaction for you. 

<POI!> My friend ZZ was so hungry yesterday on the mountain he made instant noodles with cold water. It was the funniest and perhaps saddest thing I've ever seen.

So we stayed outside at night, in front of this convenience store, eating snacks (buns, corn, eggs.. that's all the hot food available on the top of the mountain) well until 9pm. We started brushing our teeth, all while the shop owners were watching us. Eventually they asked us - why don't you go to your hotel?

That's when we told them we had no place to sleep! It was quite funny.

Eventually the other guy with us said he was feeling cold so we went into the hotel lobby and found a place to sit in the cafe. We ended up sleeping in the cafe, and it was nice because security turned off the lights without kicking us out.

It was a pretty bad sleep though, since it was freezing inside, and we didn't bring enough warm clothes. I wore all my clothes, and even used my plastic raincoat as a cover "for extra warmth" (Apparently ZZ could hear me all night, but he had a good laugh about it). I woke up every hour pretty much, and by 5am we had to wake up and set out to see the sunrise. 


Tuesday 29 April, 2014 
¥22.00         Breakfast 
¥5.00           Bao
¥5.00           Ice cream
¥15.00         Lunch 
¥129.00       Bus (Return ticket to Hangzhou)
¥2.00            Bus to Dorm
¥10.00         Dinner
¥40.00         Drink (Vineyard)
¥8.00            Groceries
(¥236.00)

We went to Purple Cloud Peak (This is from memory) to see the sunrise, and it was pretty disappointing. Think tiny red blob, hidden behind a treet, and heaps of tourists taking millions of photos around you. I got over it all pretty quickly, and we just decided to leave and get a start on exploring the rest of the places we hadn't seen on the mountain yet.

We returned back to Hangzhou mid afternoon. It was a really good trip with Z because we realised we work pretty well as travel companions, and we think very alike.. I can't even count the amount of times we said the same thing (jinx!) but the thing that really summed it all up was when we just returned back to our campus. We waved goodbye to K (who lived in a closer building to the main gate) and just as we were in sight of our building we both instinctively covered up - I put my hoodie on and hid my face, he used his hands to hide his, and when we saw what we both did we couldn't help but laugh!
(We both hadn't showered the night before obviously, and coming back from nature always makes you look a bit dirtier..)


Wednesday 30 April, 2014 
¥14.00         Lunch
¥40.00         Dinner
¥6.00           Banana + Water
¥2.00           Pineapple 
(¥62.00)

I had one day of class. I had missed so much class already I really wasn't feeling it, and struggled to concentrate.


Thursday 1 May, 2014 
¥2.40           Banana 
¥3.00           Bun
¥12.50        Coffee
¥80.00        Beijing Hostel Deposit
¥20.00        Lunch
¥36.00        Dinner
(¥153.90)

Today was the start of the May 1st holidays, so I had no class! Yippee!


Friday 2 May, 2014 
¥4.00           Breakfast (Uni Restaurant)
¥10.00         Laundry
¥3.00           Fruit
¥12.50         Coffee
¥10.00         Lunch
¥250.00      Backpack (travel)
¥10.60        Groceries
¥40.00         Dinner
¥20.00         Dessert
(¥360.10)

Since I was leaving to Beijing next weekend, I had to start planning my Beijing trip. I also had a Literature Review that was due in 2 days, but due to travel and exams, I decided to apply for an extension.

I went to a mall a bit further away to go to Decathlon, a giant sports store, to buy a travel backpack. It was pretty cheap, only 250 kuai for a 60-70L backpack (I forget).

I was feeling a bit frugal and the food in the mall was expensive, so I didn't want to buy lunch. Instead I wandered into Sam's Club (like Costco) and found all these free samples on offer! So I became full pretty quickly... (Hey I'm in China, I'm not the only one doing this!)


Saturday 3 May, 2014 
¥2.00           Water
¥15.00        Almonds (Carrefour)
¥6.00          Lunch
¥300.00      Bike Deposit
¥20.00        Tea (In Longjing Village)
¥15.00        Mulberries
¥20.00        Entry to Longjing Garden
¥116.00      Dinner
¥5.50           Pineapple and Milk
(¥499.50)

Today my friend from Italy came to Hangzhou. I took him around to see the city, and we borrowed city bikes (part of the city bike network) and cycled around Hangzhou. We went up to LongJing Village, which is where China's most famous tea leaves are grown, but we just missed the tea leaf picking season. My friend's bike chain snapped off just as we were on the top of the mountain, and the next bike stations were at the bottom of the mountain... we asked some locals if they could help but because we were pretty much in country area, the only option we had was to roll down. Luckily we were at the top of the mountain so we could still roll! Otherwise it would've been difficult to get back. (No taxis up there, it's pretty rural) 

I also took him to a nice HZ restaurant, and ordered real stinky tofu (not the fried one) and man it's really bad. It's so bad I felt bad that we didn't eat it, but I still had to ask the waiter to take it away from our table because the smell was just revolting and ruining the rest of the food.


Sunday  4 May, 2014 
¥3.00           Bun
¥12.00         Dessert
¥12.00         Chicken
¥2.90           Coconut Juice
¥.80             Banana
¥8.00           Dinner
¥4.00           Milk
(¥42.70)

Today I went with a lot of classmates to the first annual international students studying Chinese competition. It's nation wide, and there are a few rounds, uni level, then district, then state, etc. My friend was in the uni level round so we all went to cheer her on. My other friend was also dancing in the opening act, so we got to see that as well.

The comp was really difficult, and I guess it wasn't very fair as the level of Chinese really differed - from people who had native parents but lived abroad, to people with absolutely no Chinese background and only studied Chinese. The first round was a talent round (lots of singing, my friend did paper cutting, some did dancing..). Second was a question and answer about Chinese culture (questions could be preprepared from a list of 80), third was a "use this vocab to construct a story" part. Lastly each participant had to watch a video and answer questions. This was really hard.. and by then a lot of the crowd was feeling restless. 

One funny thing that did happen was - they were giving out lucky door prizes (?). As in, we got a number when we went in, and they were calling out numbers as winners of some prize. A lot of the numbers corresponded to no one, but my friend on my left did get called out! Eventually they extended it so that the person with the number and the people directly next to them got the prize. My friend on my right got her number called out, and I jumped in excitement too! But perhaps my reaction was bigger than hers, because the organisers thought I had won!! It was pretty funny for my other friends who were sitting in a different row.

In the end we didn't get the prize (the people who won by association). It was pretty crappy anyway, a t-shirt, and some weird keychain. Trying to declutter my life and omit pointless crap so I wasn't too bummed about it.

PHOTODUMP (It's taken half an hour to upload these and now I'm late for class!)

Brushing our teeth in front of the convenience store in Huangshan.


My favourite place in Huangshan.. Fairy Walking Bridge (Sorry this is not the pic of the bridge!)

So glad we stayed the extra days up there because the views were amazing! When there's no fog of course..

Our free accomodation

Back in Hangzhou, spotted! Timtams.. from Indonesia! (Apparently they taste different)

20 kuai for a cup of tea in Long Jing Village

The tea fields, all the bushes have been pruned for the next season.

My friend doing a traditional dance in the competition.

Starting to get healthy, by making the first step: making overnight oats for breakfast! I found out that the breakfast downstairs (noodles, wontons) has MSG added at the bottom of each bowl, and I need to feel like I'm giving myself a good start to the day each morning so.. voila.

Been going to the cafe, there's a cat here with a cone of shame.

My friend's pic at Longjing Village.


Total: ¥1650.00 ($296.25)

Weekly Total: 
¥1650.00 ($296.25)

Total Spend: ¥22952.65 ($4372.00 AUD)